Thursday, July 8, 2010

the philippines: a starbucks culture

oh wow, as i just got up to adjust my seating, i realized im sitting next to a tranny-licious filipino.

but then again, that's everyday here in the philippines.

before i delve into the starbucks culture, i think i'll reflect a bit on trannies here in the philippines.

[another aside - i live in a bus terminal, don't ask, it's a long story]

anyway, after lunch, i walked into the front office as the employees at the terminal were watching this filipino variety show, didn't catch the name. on the screen, was this woman - all done up in lady gaga attire, with a huge hair bow and black lace - doing 'bad romance' pretty well. after he/she performed, it was made known to me, that it was a tranny contest, with various filipino trannies, who specialize in imitating certain celebrities, performing, and for some reason competing in various challenges (like spelling 'chameleon' or identifying the birthplace of tyra banks).

it's an interesting phenomenon here in the philippines, those trannies. almost every filipino comedy film has the ubiquitous tranny, who isn't necessarily disguised as well as 'lady gaga' or 'nicole sherzinger', but rather a particularly ugly man with clown make-up. in a super-catholic culture, where machismo rules, there's a celebration of tranvestites that seems to pervade everyday entertainment. [note: i'm not entirely sure of the specific definitions of tranvestite, transgender, etc as per gender studies, so let's just apply my use of tranny to what i'm seeing on filipino tv]

while the everyday filipino would (and does) take pleasure in watching these variety shows, laughing at the tranny singing 'bad romance' and even praising their performance, i'm almost positive that these same filipinos would raise hell if their child decided to don a dress and some make up to belt out a britney song. i can't help but think of the NIMBY (Not In My Back Yard) concept, more relevant to development and instances of city planning. I explain: these Filipinos aren't necessarily hostile towards trannies, in this case, even availing of their existence as entertainment, something to watch in food coma. as an idea, the tranny is a part of filipino culture and filipinos can't deny that they exist nor that they are not enjoyed. where NIMBY comes in, is that while they enjoy trannies, in no way would it be acceptable for their own kin to become a tranny. simply unacceptable.

i think i come at this with, again, a highly american perspective. in the US, my (and most Americans') exposure to trannies is through a few common sources: 1) Jerry Springer and the like - as home-wrecking freaks; 2) MTV's True Life and the like - as freaks, but 'human' freaks dealing with sexual identity issues; 3) as the big personas hosting a fashion show or something equally as substance-less on E!.

What i'm getting at is that, for me, it seems as if the tranny in the US is perceived primarily as a freak. i find it hard to accept that americans would partake in the celebration of 'lady gaga' and 'nicole sherzinger' in the ways that filipinos so quickly take to them. there's this cultural difference that i can't quite figure out. further, my in-person tranny encounters are limited to the bowels of new york, wandering with friends and like others around us, gawking at the gigantor black man wearing fishnets and heels. in the philippines, it seems to be quite the opposite. as i sit here at starbucks, this tranny and his/her friend next to me appear well-to-do. in fact, most of the trannies i've seen here in the philippines haven't been scrounging by 'da riles,' but rather shopping at rockwell and eating at greenbelt.

i dunno where this reflection is going, but seeing this tranny was just an interesting case study in trying to figure out to see through the filipino eye.

so next up, is my reflection on the starbucks culture. or rather, the estarbucks culture.

i was g-chatting with an american friend living in manila the other day, while sitting in starbucks, discussing the 'starbucks filipinos.' when i came to the philippines in 2003, i was a teenager and a bit more cognizant of the world around me. what i remember noticing was the rapid growth of estarbucks in manila. accustomed to my dad drinking coffee whenever, i accompanied him to estarbucks and would see filipinos, no older than 11 years old, ordering frappucinos and lattes. moreso, most of the filipinos who ordered these drinks didn't seem to particularly like them. instead, i saw the frapps sweating to a slush, unfinished, sometimes unsipped, as the group left the table.

that was years ago. now estarbucks is just as common as jollibee and in the wake of 'hipness' of the estarbucks drink itself, now seems to be the 'hipness' of the estarbucks environment: in what's become more of a stage, a place to wear your sunglasses indoors (just as this woman currently sitting across from me), a place to show off the ipad you just bought, and much to my and my friends' annoyance, a place to show off your english.

i would characterize a good number of estarbucks clients here in the philippines to be expats, maybe for -

wow, can i please just take a minute to mention that the table of grown-ass filipino men, struggling to look cool with their long straightened hair and track jackets, are vocalizing and singing portions of US R&B songs OUT LOUD - perfectly appropriate for current discussion

- anyway, i speculate expats find solace and comfort in estarbucks -

WOW, THESE GUYS ARE REALLY SINGING! like seriously, do0ds. i feel like i'm in an episode of making the band: the super-fob edition. these guys' utter lack of shame and desire for attention is beyond me.

they're legit holding an a capella, glee audition here in estarbucks. you know, it's funny because i've experienced black people singing out loud all the time, but the difference is, THEY'RE GOOD. these guys are seriously squeezing out pieces of shit as they're hitting their high notes which really just pisses me of that they think they're awesome.


so, expats find comfort in estarbucks, blah blah. in my defense, at yale, i spent all my hours in coffee shops to do my work, the ambient noise was soothing and conducive to my work

UNLIKE THESE EFFING GUYS, WHO ARE REALLY SINGING. REALLY? REALLY?

I CAN HEAR YOU THROUGH MY ITUNES FULL BLAST!


oh jesus, they're clapping their hands.

i'm leaving, i'm leaving this place right now.

i'm sorry friends (and mom, for the cussing) but these guys are really ridiculous and while i was hoping to discuss my ideas of estarbucks filipinos in my own words, i think my real-time narration really shows you what i'm talking about.

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